At 3 am sharp my mini-van transfer to Santa Marta arrives at the doorstep of the Casa Amarilla. Gosh, they are reliable here! The van is uncomforable and yet another sub-zero on wheels, but after a bumpy 7 hours we finally reach Santa Marta at the coast of the Caribbean. While driving the passengers to their drop-off points all across town I get a first impression and the impression is that I don´t miss out on a big deal if I skip Santa Marta... Eventually it´s my turn to leave the shuttle van. They drop me off at the market, from where I can catch a colectivo bus to Tayrona National Park. The colectivo is about to depart and so I hop on, have my copious luggage stowed in the compartment at the back (and I really hope it will stay there, but it´s too heavy anyway to grab and run, that´s my protection!). About an hour later the colectivo stops in front of my hostel, the beautiful and peaceful Ecohostal Yuluka. I receive the usual warm welcome and am taken to my little hut up a steep and slippery slope. It´s quite an effort to carry my bags (one of them I have christened "el monstrillo" - little monster) while at the same time trying not to step on the five months old and very frisky and playful puppy "Caramelo", who is after my shoe laces and my calves. The bungalow is spacious and really nice. It just smells a bit strange, but I blame it on the thatched roof and the tropical climate that fuels decay... I´ll grow used to it and place is just gorgeous!
After moving in I leisurely stroll through the nicely arranged grounds but finally I surrender to the moist and humid heat and take to the pool, complete with water slide and artificial waterfall.
I decide to spend the rest of the afternoon at a nearby beach. There is very little sun and the waves are too strong for a dip, but I enjoy peaceful hours in a hammock and the soothing sound of the ocean is the perfect lullaby. Some little children run around, having fun with a machete...
Back at the hostel I have dinner in the company of a couple from Puerto Rico and another couple from Colorado. It´s fun to talk, but switching languages remains difficult... Anyway, the time passes quickly and before long I feel ready for the last beer of the day in my hammock and an early night.
The next morning I get up early again, because today I´m exploring the nearby Tayrona National Park. The hearty breakfast is just what I need as I´m in for a lot of hiking. Fortunately the sun hides behind thick clouds - it´s hot nevertheless... The first trail takes me through dense rain forest. Every once and again I here some rustling in the canopies of the mighty trees - monkeys having a great time. I also see all sorts of birds, insects, especially the armies of leaf-cutter ants and many different lizards.
After about 1 hour I finally reach the first beach. The surf and undercurrents make it a very dangerous place for a dip and there are signs telling you that in the last years more than 100 people have drowned here... So I just take in the view and trod on.
After yet another 30 minutes I reach the first little sheltered beach that is fine for swimming. A palm-fringed stretch of golden sand, bathed by crystal-clear waters ranging in colour from turquoise to emerald green, little waves splashing huge round boulders. Beaches hardly come any prettier! Time for another break, some fresh orange juice and a short swim to wash off the sweat (and there´s a lot of sweat to wash off, believe me!)
But it´s time to move on. I reach the sheltered bay of Playa Nudista, Colombia´s only official nude beach, after about another hour of strenuous but highly rewarding hiking, but none of the six or so other bathers are in the buff and so I try to blend in and have to live with the tan lines ;-). I spend the next hour or so whiling away in the calm, clear and warm waters of the Caribbean. It sure was worth all the effort!
Eventually it´s time to start on the long way back. Still, the views, the sounds of the jungle and the pondering waves are just exhilerating. Whenever I come across a little stand or a beach vendor I have some fruit or a fresh fruit juice to make up for the substantial loss of water and to avoid dehydration. The sun keeps finding little gaps in the clouds and makes me sweat even more (if that is possible). When I reach the rendezvous point I don´t have to wait long to get back to the hostel. Back there, after a refreshing shower and putting on dry clothes, I meet Kristen and Joe from Colorado at dinner and help them arrange their transport to Mompós. Then we decide to arrange a trip to some nearby waterfalls for the next morning.
Our first stop is an unusual gas station with cheap gas from Venezuela. Here the pump depends on muscle power.
A little further down the road we stop again to take in views of the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the world´s highest coastal mountain range. Its highest summits reach about 5800 meters, making them also the highest peaks of mountainous Colombia.
An easy 30-minute stroll along a stream takes us to the Cascadas de Valencia, set amidst lush tropical vegetation. The cascades form numerous ponds of clear, refreshing water fine for swimming. We choose different pools and feel like Robinson Crusoe - for most of the time there´s nobody else but us. I spend a good hour splashing and swimming, having the cascade massage my back and being nibbled on by hundres of little fish. Later on we join again and we feel very sorry when it´s time to leave. But not for long, because there are busloads of people headed for the cascades! That´s what I call superb timing!!! On the way the strap of one of my flip flops breaks - fortunately the path is rather smooth. Well, at least it makes the decision whether to take them back to Germany or leave them in Colombia a good deal easier...
Back at the hostel I spend the rest of the day reading in my hammock and cooling down in the pool. Not to forget letting Caramelo sink his teeth in my arms and legs... They should really get him a bone! ;-) Dinner is a bit quieter today as it´s just me, Caramelo and the cat. I have my beer in the hammock and enjoy the blazing sky at my last tropical sunset. Then I try to escape the attacking mosquitos in the airconditioned hut (doesn´t work though) and mercifully fall asleep watching the Colombian version of American Idol...
In the morning I have a (comparably) late breakfast, pack my things and heave the bags down to the pool before spending another relaxed and hot hour in the pool. Then it´s time to say good-bye to this tropical paradise and leave for Santa Marta airport.
The airport is right by the Caribbean and has its own stretch of white sand just across the cafeteria. This time I have to pay for excess luggage but I kind of expected that and anyway, it´s just 18 dollars...
The airport is right by the Caribbean and has its own stretch of white sand just across the cafeteria. This time I have to pay for excess luggage but I kind of expected that and anyway, it´s just 18 dollars...
The plane leaves on time and both, my baggage and I arrive in chilly Bogotá earlier than I expected. A short cab ride later I find myself at Francis´ apartment and after depositing the bags in my room we walk to the nearby mall and buy the groceries and my provisions for tomorrow´s long trip back.
We order a pizza for dinner and talk while I re-distribute my luggage - I´m allowed two bags now, which makes it a lot easier. It´s almost 1 am before we go to bed - another very short night as I´ll have to get up at 4:15 am. I hardly find any sleep as I meditate about the past 4 weeks. What a wonderful experience - happy thoughts to keep me awake this time!
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