Popayán (August, 10th)

This is a wonderful long night and I sleep till 9 o´clock (especially thanks to my earplugs as the traffic outside is roaring). Popayán is a comparably small city, so I´m in no particular hurry today - I know that I´ll easily soak up the vibes and visit the places of interest in a few hours, and so I first update my blogs and then get ready to explore the aptly called "White City".

Leaving my cosy hostel I quickly find out what the two main pillars of life in Popayán are - universities and the church. You can find either one just about around every corner. The colonial heart of this affluent-looking, clean and busy (yet not hectic) city consists mainly of stern-looking Andalusian-style white-washed houses. I wander around with no particular aim but to find photo motives (Okay, that´s a bit exaggerated, even for me) and to enjoy the hot sun. It´s impossible to not wear sunglasses - the eyes fill with tears very quickly - because the houses are so bright in the sun.

Very true, even the cell-phone crazy Colombians don´t need a mobile to talk to God.

This is the city´s renowned theatre

Drive-through of a spiritual kind

Undoubtedly the heart of the colonial centre is wonderful Parque de Caldas, lined by the very representative buildings of all of the town´s major institutions and just the perfect place to catch a tan while watching the people doing business or enjoying their lunch breaks. 

Not far off (well, nothing here really is) there is the old bridge Puente de la Custodia, which dates back to 1713. I´ve been warned though not to cross it with valuables on me, so I give it a raincheck.

For lunch I have a delicious empanada pipián, a local pastry filled with peanuts, potatoes and minced meat, and wash it down with huge quantities of freshly made Guanábana juice. This will easily keep me going until dinner (or allow me to skip it altogether). Then I do my groceries and buy provisions for tomorrow, when I travel on to Cali. Back at the hostel I decide to join the local tradition and have a short siesta. My siesta ends at half past five after a short work-out, a quick chat on facebook and a shower, just in time for the sunset. I have my camera ready and enjoy the still lively, yet laid-back atmosphere (I know, it sounds a bit contradictory, but those who have been to the Mediterranean or Latin America understand what I´m trying to say here) at Parque Caldas. The city loses much of its sternness as the street lights and the sophisticated light effects for the main buildings add a touch of colour.

The historical bridge Puente del Humilladero

After the photo session I treat myself to a "fancy" dinner in a real steak restaurant with waiters and "wait to be seated"-policy and have a juicy chicken breast and an ice-cold Águila, the most popular Colombian beer. Then I return to my room, finish today´s blog, pack my bags and have a quick shower. I´ll probably catch up on my García Márquez, but not until too late as I plan to be at the bus terminal by seven thirty tomorrow morning. I´m going to nearby Cali (2-3 hours) for one night next... So, buenas noches compañeros

PS: I had already been wondering about the strange absence of postcard stands in Bogotá and all the other (in theory) touristy places, but today I found out why. The explanation is simple - postage is ridiculously expensive - by any standard. Surface mail to Europe is more than € 5,-, airmail even twice that. And from what I´ve heard a significant percentage of the cards mailed is likely to disappear...Sorry Guy(s), no postcard this year, I´m afraid.