Salento / Eje Cafetero (August, 13th - 16th)

First of all I have to apologize for the longer absence, but first of all and I didn`t have Wifi at my last hostel and secondly, for some unknown reason my netbook has stopped working. It`s either the hard drive or Windows, but no matter what it is, I won`t be able to use it on this trip - which obviously complicates blogging. But I`ll try my best to update regularly. Right now I`m using the Mac in my hostel in Medellín, and it really drives me mad. 

I left Cali early in the morning and found myself in Salento shortly after noon, after a very scenic but otherwise uneventful journey. Salento is a small town in the so-called Eje Cafetero, or coffee triangle, which is where more than half the Colombian coffee comes from. It`s a typical "pueblo paisa", or Paisa village (Paisas being the people living in the area, mainly of European (basque) descendence). It`s colourful  houses and beautiful architecture seem to be quite well known in Colombia, because hords of (mostly domestic) tourists have invaded this otherwise probably quaint town. Still, the bright colours are quite an eyecatcher and distract from the masses and the plentiful gift shops.

My hostel, the absolutely wonderful Posada del Café, run be even more wonderful María Elena, is a typical and historical u-shaped house with a gorgeous patio, which is frequently visited by all sorts of colourful birds and attracts a huge number of hummningbirds. Although me room is small, I feel great and María Elena is such a warm-hearted and helpful person that I always enjoy coming back to the posada.

María Elena is a fantastic host!

After a great dinner it´s time for another stroll through the village and then an early night, because tomorrow it´ll be an early morning as well. I´m going to visit some thermal springs about 2 hours from Salento in the middle of the cloud forest.

So I tug in at the hearty breakfast and go to Santa Rosa de Cabal via the departmental capital Pereira.  For the last bit (which almost takes the longest) I get on board one of the typical chivas (goats), which only leaves after the last space is occupied - not even an ant would find a space now. My behind suffers a lot on the wooden benches (they don´t go too well with bumpy roads and deep potholes...) but finally we arrive and I walk up the hill, following a little stream and soon the view opens to a waterfall that forms the perfect and idyllic backdrop to the 4 pools of different temperatures. Around noon the Colombians begin to guzzle huge quantities of beer and other (stronger!) spirits and the combination of long stays in hot water and alcohol gets several people to their knees (or even lower...). I still enjoy the scenery and the soothing waters.

Rubbing shoulders (and other parts of the body) in an uber-full chiva

Upon arriving in Salento I have to realize that it was quite empty the day before - now all you see is people and it feels like Christmas shopping in a huge metropolis. I decide to dodge the crowds and have dinner at a remote restaurant with fantastic views of the Cocora Valley and only two more guests. Their trout "al ajillo y limón" (garlic and lemon sauce) is just what I was craving.

The next morning starts early again - I want to do some serious hiking and get on one of the "Willys", old Army-style jeeps, that take me to the little hamlet "Cocora", 11 km away. That`s where the hike begins. The valley is famous for it`s extremely picturesque scenery and a huge number of Colombia`s endangered national tree, the tall, up to 60m high wax palm, which only grows in cold climates above 2000m. Soon I meet a Swiss girl and we hike together 6km through increasingly dense cloud forest to the habitat "Acaime" at 2900m altitude and have to cross the river balancing over logs and rickety swaying bridges. We enjoy a hot coffee and marvel at the different kinds of hummingbirds that dwell there. In Acaime we get two know two Belgian guys, Didier and Simon and we decide to hike on together. We walk back a kilometer or so and take another trail up a very steep mountain. On the way we meet a cheerful group of Colombians and we continue the taxing climb in a big and noisy group but have lots of fun. At the top (3200 m altitude) we have a picknick but soon it starts to rain. We find shelter in a shed at the farm of La Montaña, but after a while we are cold and the Colombians are trying a bit too hard to make us join their Pentecostal community... so we decide to continue our hike on a wide dirt road, inspite of the rain - which stops almost at the same moment! The views and the atmosphere are ever changing and absolutely mesmerizing. For seconds the mist disappears and a little window into the valley opens. The shadows of more and more wax palms appear and it feels otherworldy, almost jurassic park-like. We can´t get enough of all this, take hundreds of photos or remain completely awestruck. Too soon do we reach the valley after a total of round about 15 kilometers. What a wonderful day! We get on board the jeep and drive back to the now less full village.

The Colombian group, Didier, Simon, Anja and I

Wax palms turn me into a tree hugger 

Add some dinosaurs and you´ve got Jurassic Park!

We decide to meet again for dinner, return to our hostels and have a nice, warm shower. In the evening we have the obligatory trout on the plaza and then have some beers at a nearby pool parlour (traditional place for men to hang out and get completely drunk...). They close at midnight and I just have to cross the street to reach my Posada. 

I enjoy the last breakfast in the Posada and a long talk with María Elena on the bus to Pereira. She has to visit family and I have a bus to catch - I´m going to Medellín, Colombia´s second-largest city. The 230km-long journey takes me through breathtaking mountain scenery and make me forget the bumpy road and the strange driving skills of today´s driver. In Medellín I hop on board a yellow cab and within minutes I find myself in front of my well-camouflaged home for one night. Tomorrow I´ll start a 4-day trip to the remote Pacific coast, to an eco-lodge without electricity or other ways of modern communication butr plenty of jungle and humpback whales instead. I can´t wait! I`ll keep you posted - but not before August, 21st ... (when I´m due back in Medellín).